Jan 6, 2018 4 min read

It has been said that cleanliness is next to godliness. The line stresses the importance of being clean and much the same could be said about one’s firearm.

This is especially true of the rifle, which has been carried during the course of a deer season. It’s a rainy day? The rifle is out getting wet. Even in dry weather the difference in temperatures in the house and outdoors can cause moisture to form on the metal parts of the rifle or shotgun. That is the major reason that one should try to avoid taking a cold rifle into a warm house. The answer to that problem is to leave the rifle in the coldest part of the house or put it in a carrying case that is also cold and allowing the gun and case to warm up together. An extreme measure is to just leave the rifle in the car if it is to be used the next day, but be safe about it.

Another problem arises when a wet or damp firearm is put into a case. The wetness is transferred to the carrying case to do its evil deed to the metal at a later date. More than once I have seen the finish on a fine rifle or shotgun ruined because a clean long gun was stored in a damp case.

The hazards of using a damp case are good reasons to store a gun in an open area, where it can be checked periodically for rust. Today’s rifles are typically made with synthetic stocks. There is little fear of problems associated with the shifting caused by wetness. I once had a fine custom stock rifle that had fancy wood and great bedding. I took it hunting and got caught in a hard rain. While before that soaking the rifle shot half-inch groups, after it shot groups in the 2-inch range. The wetness had caused the wood to warp, changing the bedding. I never did get the rifle to shoot accurately again and traded it off.

Wood is warm and prettier but synthetic is more practical. When I am done writing this, I am going to go get one of my big-game rifles out of the safe and check it for moisture damage for I had carried it once during the last deer season. The last time I used it, I had wiped it with an oily rag so I feel confident all will be well but it doesn’t hurt to take another look. While I will give it another wipe I also will check the lens of the scope and clean the bore. After all, if the outside surfaces sweat when warmed so will the metal you don’t see easily. Next, after wiping parts seen easily, I will turn to the bore. Since the rifle had been fired before the season and left fouled throughout the season, it is about time to clean that bore.

First a dry patch is run through the bore to remove any dust that made the rifle a home. Then, a patch soaked with Hoppes is run through the bore. Remember when doing this, unless it is impossible always clean from the breach end. I also avoid cleaning without using a bore guide. These things are inexpensive, giving the cleaning rod a straight shot at the rifle bore. You want to avoid rubbing at various spots along its trip down the barrel. Not only that, it is a help when a patch falls from the tip of the cleaning rod. It is now time to brush.

Leave the Hoppes in there for a bit longer for stubborn fouling. If I believe the Hoppes has done its job, then I reach for the rod with the brush. Somewhere between five and 10 passes with the brush should be enough but there is no hard rule on that. Not only does the solvent soften the fouling but the friction of the brush passing through the bore creates heat, and warm is better when cleaning the bore.

One can dry with patches after the brush was used, or you can wait while it air dries. I believe that when drying it takes at least eight passes with a clean dry patch to do a credible job and a dozen is even better.

Hopefully, now your rifle is clean, and a clean rifle is a happy rifle, maybe not godly, but happy and so taken care of will last a lifetime.