Rays, ruins and romance
A view of the turquoise water near the Solo Buceo dive shop
A diver explores the Underwater Museum.
A diver explores the Underwater Museum.
Stingrays are just some of the marine life divers will see along Cancun’s reefs.
A beach in the Cancun Hotel Zone
A view from the Riu Palace Peninsula, which was built four years ago and has 572 ocean- veiw suites.
Ik Kil cenote near Chichén Itzá
Chichén Itzá is the largest Mayan archaeological site in Yucatan.
The pre-dawn wakeup call was rough but worth it: By 8:30 a.m. local time, we were in Mexico and heading toward our beachfront oasis. I remembered Cancun as being beautiful and extremely fun.
Now, I was back 12 years later, looking forward to beautiful beaches and quality scuba diving while wondering if Cancun’s reputation as only a party spot would ring true. A coastal city in the state of Quintana Roo on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, Cancun sits where the Gulf of Mexico meets the Caribbean Sea. It literally was built for fun in the 1970s by the Mexican government, which selected the 14 miles of beaches shaped like a number “7” to be the home of luxury waterfront resorts. Within a decade, what was marsh and mangroves – Cancun translates to “nest of snakes” – transformed into a world-class vacation spot with turquoise seas and a brand new airport to bring in tourists.
I last visited in early 2005 and was mesmerized by the color of the water, the sugary sand beaches and the warmth of the Mexican people. That fall, Hurricane Wilma pummeled Cancun, wiping away much of its beach and leaving resorts and the tourist industry damaged.
Cancun gradually rebuilt, renourished its beaches and reinvigorated its tourism industry, and is every bit as beautiful and welcoming as it ever was. The best part about the early-morning nonstop flight is getting to spend your entire first day on the beach rather than on a plane.
Picking a resort is tricky, since some cater to families, others to the young party crowd and still others to adults only. Which to choose?
We found a nice mix at the Riu Palace Peninsula, which was definitely upscale and a bit quieter and more removed from the central party area of the hotel zone, but still provided a terrific mix of activities, serene beaches, fantastic cuisine and entertainment every night. We started out with a few days of flopping on the beach, enjoying the swim-up (all-inclusive) pool bar and not having to be anywhere at any time.
If you want to venture away from your resort – and you truly don’t have to if it’s all- inclusive – navigating Cancun is a breeze. The hotel zone (Zona Hotelera) has only one road (Boulevard Kukulcan) and public buses run ’round the clock ($1 U.S. currency or 8 to 9 pesos). Dollars are still readily accepted, so there’s no need to change money, but be prepared to get change returned in pesos rather than U.S. dollars.
There are plenty of shops, bars and restaurants to try, plus pulsating nightclubs that don’t even open their doors until 11 p.m. If the drive down the main drag has you thinking you’re in Miami rather than Mexico, stop into Carlos ‘n Charlie’s or Señor Frog’s for Mexican fare, music and a taste of tequila.
No place parties like Cancun into the wee hours, but it offers so much more than that, and you can easily escape the tourist buzz and spring break atmosphere by taking a ferry or snorkel excursion to nearby Isla Mujeres for a relaxing day. We hopped the bus to Solo Buceo dive shop at the Hyatt Ziva and spent two days diving and snorkeling to explore colorful fish and coral on Manchones reef and the stunning Underwater Museum (MUSA), with splendid visibility and warm water temperatures. Both sit inside a federally protected marine area, and Cancun dive sites also offer deeper wreck dives and (seasonally) the chance to get up close with whale sharks and sailfish. The MUSA was formed in 2009 and, with 500 permanent, life-sized sculptures, is one of the largest underwater artificial art attractions in the world. The statues form part of a reef structure for marine life, providing beautiful views of art and aquatic life for snorkelers above and close encounters with eels, sharks and rays for divers below the surface.
A journey to the Yucatan Peninsula also offers you the chance to explore underwater inland by checking out its mystical cenotes, which are natural pits or sinkholes formed by the collapse of limestone bedrock. These underwater rivers run across the region, and you’ll find spots to swim, hike and even dive through, depending on how adventurous you feel.
Speaking of adventure, explorers and history buffs alike will want to visit the ancient Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza, considered to be one of the world’s New Seven Wonders. Chichén Itzá is the largest Mayan archaeological site in Yucatan and makes a nice day trip from Cancun, either on your own by car or on a day tour. We booked a tour through Cancun Passion ($119) and were thrilled with the quality, service and value.
The 2 1/2-hour ride in an air-conditioned motorcoach with restroom included breakfast, snacks, drinks and as much Mayan history as you could handle. Next came a guided tour of the site, which included bottled water and an umbrella for shade, and time to explore. A delicious lunch followed and featured local Yucatan specialties, like lime and chicken soup, cochinita pibil (spicy pulled pork) and a specialty drink made from green chaya leaves.
That leads us back to the cenotes, otherwise known as “sacred wells” in Mayan. Our last stop on the Chichen Itza day trip was a chilling but refreshing dip in the 130-foot deep cenote at nearby Ik Kil Archeological Park. You’ll trek down nearly 100 carved steps to water level, but it’s worth it – especially if you take the plunge from a 15-foot ledge into chilling but refreshing water on a near 90-degree day and peer upward to daylight through a maze of vines.
It’s easy to imagine why Mayans used cenotes for rituals and relaxation. Whether you’re seeking a raucous good time or some relaxation of your own, Cancun offers both at an affordable price.
When to go: High season runs December to April, and hurricane season is June to November. Try early December and late April to May for fewer crowds, better rates and comfortable weather.
Getting there: From Pittsburgh, fly Delta, American, United, JetBlue or Southwest. Apple Vacations operates nonstop charters through Allegiant Air on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.
Where to stay: Cancun and the Mexican Riviera are famous for all-inclusive, beachfront resorts, ranging from family-friendly to adults only. Riu Palace Peninsula was built four years ago, has 572 ocean view suites, five swimming pools, a swim-up bar and excellent food and entertainment; www.Riu.com.
What to do: Dive or snorkel the coral reefs, wrecks and the Underwater Museum (http://musamexico.org/). Solo Buceo dive shop, located in the Hyatt Ziva, Boulevard Kukulcan, offers small groups and excellent guides for diving and/or snorkeling (www.solobuceo.com/). Day trip to the Chichén Itzá Mayan Archaeological Site by car or a tour and cool off afterward with a dip in the nearby cenote (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/483).