Seasonal cooking with Dan Wagner
For many this time of year, we spend our Fridays going out and enjoying the delights of seafood. For those who enjoy an evening in the kitchen, the myriad options of seafood give us endless opportunity to be creative with so many ingredients. If it’s broiling salmon, steaming littleneck clams, frying squid, sautéing shrimp or broiling lobster, going fresh is best. So, let’s jump into the kitchen and let’s start cooking.
One of my favorite ways in preparing fish is cooking en papillote. This method of cooking involves placing fish with various seasonings such as fresh herbs, lemon or sauces, then enclosing in a piece of parchment paper. If one would like, they can add a small bed of vegetables under the fillet to be cooked. The key to success is to make sure the parchment is tightly sealed so the steam will not escape. In the cooking preparation, we place the fish in the oven – but in all actuality we are steaming our fish. Most any fish will cook with this method, but I have found that salmon, cod, sole and mackerel works extremely well. When removing the fish from the oven, the parchment will be brown in color. Just place on plate and serve. It has been a tradition for the guest to cut the parchment at the table. Note: One must be careful not to burn themselves when opening with the release of steam.
If were looking for something a bit lighter with a side of warm French bread, then maybe a cup of Zuppa di Vongole will hit the spot. Nothing is more enjoyable than small littleneck clams in a tomato-based broth with white wine. Start this recipe just by scrubbing clams in cold water to remove sand and grit. Place in a covered pot with a little wine and lemon and cook until they open. I myself, at this point, will take half out of the shell and leave a few in shell for presentation of this great Zuppa. Now, just sauté a handful of minced onions in olive oil with three cloves of garlic chopped, 6 teaspoons of chopped parsley, a touch of white wine, and pabout 3/4 pound of chopped plum tomatoes with juice. Simmer for a short time add clams a few minutes before service to bring up to temperature. I have always liked to add shrimp, mussels, and squid to this recipe to make a hardier Zuppa.
Now that we have a few ideals in the preparation of seafood, jump into the car for a short ride north or south of the county and pick up some fresh fish at your local market. If you’re not feeling a drive, there is always the fishing pole and Ten-Mile Creek. Enjoy!
Mackerel en Papillote
Ingredients
1 4-ounce Mackerel fillet
2 teaspoons butter, melted
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
Pinch dried marjoram
1 teaspoon very finely chopped shallots
3 thin lemon slices
Directions
1. Cut out a piece of parchment paper in to a heart shape. The paper must be big enough to hold the fish and still have room for crimping the edges. Oil the parchment and place oiled side down.
2. Place the fillet on one side of the heart of the paper. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with salt, pepper, parsley, marjoram and chopped shallots. Lay lemon slices on top.
3. Fold and crimp the parchment paper tightly.
4. Place the folded package in a sauté’ pan or, if several orders are being done at once, on a sheet pan. Set on the range to start the cooking.
5. As soon as the paper begins to puff, place the pan in a 450-degree oven. Bake until the parchment is puffed and browned, about 6 to 8 minutes.
6. Serve immediately. Cut parchment open in front of guest.
Spicy Shrimp Saute
Yield: 10 portions
Ingredients
1 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried basil
1/4 teaspoon dried Oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 pounds peeled, deveined shrimp
6 ounces onions, sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
Clarified butter, as needed
Directions
1. Mix together the spices, herbs and salt.
2. If the shrimp are wet, dry them with paper towel.
3. Toss the shrimp with dry ingredients.
4. Sauté’ the onions and garlic in a little clarified butter until they are tender and only lightly browned. Remove them from the pan and set aside.
5. Add a little more butter to the pan and sauté the seafood just until it is cooked.
6. Return the onions and garlic to the pan and toss to combine. Serve immediately, accompanied by white rice.
Chef’s note: This recipe is also excellent using scallops.
Dan Wagner of Rices Landing has been the director of culinary arts at Greene County Career and Technology Center for 24 years. He is a graduate of Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I.