A long weekend jaunt to two towns in the Carolinas makes for a gorgeous getaway
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
The mansion at the Bilmore Estate.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Christmas at the Biltmore Estate means thousands of ornaments and rooms adorned with trees.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
A season garden at the Biltmore Estate
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Fall foliage in the Blue Ridge Mountains near the Biltmore Estate.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
A sprawling ceiling inside the Biltmore mansion
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Sparkling wines are available for sampling at the Biltmore mansion.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
A view of Falls Park on the Reedy from Larkin’s patio
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Falls Park on the Reedy in downtown Greenville, S.C.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
Fans ready for the start of a recent Clemson University football game.
Kristin Emery/For the Observer-Reporter
A rooftop view of downtown Greenville, S.C., complete with cocktails
Autumn is the perfect time to head to the Carolinas with mild temperatures still lingering and fall foliage popping across the Appalachian Mountains.
When we got the opportunity to take in a Clemson University football game with friends there – how can you pass up a chance to see how the defending national champions do football – we upped the ante by making it a long weekend getaway to two “villes.”
Asheville, N.C., and Greenville, S.C., provide the perfect opportunity for this trip with a mere 63 miles separating the two cities. Both municipal regions boast populations of around a half-million people, but a nearly one-hour drive will take you to two totally different experiences.
Whether you’re into football, hiking, art galleries or a foodie tour or craft beer crawl, these two “villes” have you covered.
Amazing Asheville
You can drive from Western Pennsylvania to the Asheville-Greenville area in less than eight hours, but it’s far more enjoyable to take a really quick flight. Asheville and Greenville airports are both quick hops from Pittsburgh with most airlines routing through nearby Charlotte or Atlanta. We flew into Greenville early morning and rented a car for the long weekend.
The pretty drive to Asheville gave us a chance to take in some Blue Ridge Mountain fall foliage on our way to the Biltmore Estate. This sprawling mansion is styled after the chateau of the Loire Valley in France and was built for George Washington Vanderbilt between 1889 and 1895.
It is the largest privately owned house in the country at 178,926 square feet and is still owned by his descendants. Construction of the mansion involved 1,000 workers, 60 stone masons and a woodworking factory, brick kiln and railroad spur built onsite.
Vanderbilt opened the opulent home on Christmas Eve 1895 with a party for family and friends from across the United States. Christmas is an extremely popular time to visit the Biltmore, but we timed it just right in late October to be able to view fall foliage and the first taste of Christmas decorations across the estate. We did, however, arrive just a bit early for the new Downton Abbey exhibit which runs at Biltmore through April.
After a tour of the mansion, take a stroll through the many Biltmore gardens which change seasonally. Next stop is Biltmore Village which is home to the estate’s winery. Here, they offer free tastings and winery tours and a wine bar next door offers tasty pairings with small plates. The village has a hotel and inn, shops and restaurants and plenty of activities including horseback riding and even a Segway tour of the estate.
Asheville is famous for the Biltmore, but it’s so much more than that.
The arts scene there is vibrant with more than 30 galleries in the bustling downtown area. The River Arts District used to be filled with factories that now house galleries, museums and art studios.
Like so many cities, the food scene here is thriving.
After settling into our room at the Four Points by Sheraton Asheville Downtown, we took the front desk staff’s advice and walked a few blocks to a relatively new spot called Collaboratory Canarchy Craft Brewing Collective on North Lexington Avenue.
I’m normally dubious about restaurant tips from hotel staffeers, but these folks were right on with their recommendation. Collaboratory not only brews its own creations but they partner up with other craft brewers and invite them in to collaborate on concoctions. We sampled several tasty brews along with a smokey pulled pork topped mac and cheese that really hit the spot.
Growing Greenville
We headed our the next morning back to Greenville which sits halfway between Atlanta and Charlotte on Interstate 85.
What used to be a quiet town in the upstate part of South Carolina is now bursting at the seams.
In fact, the census bureau in 2017 ranked Greenville as the fourth fourth-fastest-growing city in the nation. A huge explosion in business there is fueling condo and office construction downtown and housing developments on the outskirts.
We headed downtown to see what all the fuss is about and I was blown away by all of the shops, restaurant, museums and activities all nestled in such a scenic, friendly spot.
In 2004, the city dedicated Falls Park on the Reedy, a huge regional park in the city’s West End with waterfalls and gardens and the pedestrian suspension Liberty Bridge which provides terrific viewing and photo ops of the entire area.
Find a parking spot and just take your time strolling the streets and walking along the waterfall area for a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon. We spied a rooftop bar and discovered an ideal spot for taking in the sights.
Up on the Roof sits atop the Embassy Suites by Hilton Greenville Downtown Riverplace and provides indoor and outdoor seating for food and drinks. You’ll definitely want to head outside to the rooftop patio and pull up a seat on the cushioned sofas. Order one of the yummy cocktails they bottle onsite and sip it while you take in the scenery of the city and the waterfall below.
For a nice Sunday brunch or lunch al fresco, head across the pedestrian bridge to Larkin’s On The River and dine steaks, seafood and southern fare or order up a pitcher of mimosas with your brunch omelet. You’ll absolutely want to take the time to savor the food, drink and scenery here.
Next up, it was time for some football and a quick drive over to Clemson. This quaint college town has friendly, rabid fans, a fantastic tailgating scene and some fun bars and restaurants on the main drag. After a big win at “Death Valley,” as it’s called, it was time to head home. Greenville’s airport is small enough to make it an easy, quick arrival and check-in, yet big enough to have flights going anywhere you need. A few hours later, we were home after getting the chance to see mountains, waterfalls, a mansion, art galleries and some great football.