Looking back: Making an excellent cherry bounce
Courtesy of Washington County Historical Society
Bryan Cunning and Courtney Dennis in the Hangman’s Noose Tavern (Kennedy Log House) at Washington Park
Courtesy of Washington County Historical Society
Dan Regaller and Joe Piszczor inside the Hangman’s Noose Tavern (Kennedy Log House) at Washington Park
Courtesy of Washington County Historical Society
Interior of the Hangman’s Noose Tavern – Kennedy Log House – at Washington Park
In the 18th and 19th centuries, taverns were at the center of life in the colonies and later the United States. People drank, ate, slept, received mail, heard the latest gossip and congregated there. In the 19th century, taverns were often used as stagecoach stops along the National Road. In the late 18th century in Bassettown (Washington, Pa.), after the Methodist church on what is now Wheeling Street burned down, the church members met at the Black Bear Tavern until a new building could be constructed. Churches meeting at taverns was common because taverns were the only buildings available with seating. It also was not unusual to find taverns being used for court hearings. It is likely that the first trial to take place in Bassettown was held at a tavern. It was in taverns in 1791 that the first rumblings about the excise tax on distilled spirits was heard. These rumblings would eventually lead to farmers rebelling against the tax and the national government in what would become the Whiskey Rebellion. Truly, taverns were the social and cultural centers of early communities and played an import role in the development of this region.
As many taverns such as the Sign of George Washington, The Sign of the Swan, The Black Bear Tavern, and Caldwell’s Tavern began opening in Washington, tavern keeps found it necessary to compete for customers. One way of doing this was by promoting a specialty drink. Most taverns would have one signature drink that would draw people through their doors. It was this competition between taverns that led to the development of many unique, and normally quite tasty, alcoholic concoctions. Oftentimes, these drinks would be seasonal, such as apple ciders and punches, which would primarily be fall drinks. Other drinks were served only during holidays such as Christmas and Twelfth Night.
Twelfth Night (also known as Epiphany) is the last day of Christmas. It commemorates the arrival of the Magi, the Three Kings, from the East who followed a star to the place of Jesus’ birth. These travelers from afar were mystics, seekers and explorers. Twelfth Night is a holiday in some branches of Christianity marking the coming of the Epiphany, or Twelfth Day, and is defined by the Oxford English Dictionary as “the evening of the 5 January, preceding Twelfth Day, the eve of the Epiphany.” In some traditions it is taken to mean the evening of the Twelfth Day itself, the 6 January. This apparent difference has arisen probably due to the old custom of treating sunset as the beginning of the following day. Therefore, Twelfth Night would have been considered as occurring on the twelfth day, though in present-day custom it is the previous day. The celebration of Epiphany, the adoration of the Magi, is marked in some cultures by the exchange of gifts, and Twelfth Night, as the eve of Epiphany, takes on a similar significance to Christmas Eve.
In the 18th century, the people of Southwestern Pennsylvania would often celebrate Twelfth Night instead of Christmas. They would expect their local taverns to have drinks that would commemorate the time of celebration. Cherry bounce was a tradition for those holiday celebrations and was a favorite of George Washington. Below are instructions for mixing this festive drink. Included are both the original 18th century recipe and a 21st century version you can include at a feast of your own.
Cherry bounce
Although drinks involving the use of cherries were most commonly drunk in the early autumn, it did become tradition in some areas to save a batch of cherry bounce for holiday celebrations. Cherry bounce is essentially cherry-infused alcohol drink. Traditionally brandy was used. There is a bit of work involved with making this drink, and must be done at least two weeks before a gathering, but it will sweeten any holiday party.
18th Century Cherry Bounce
From “Dining with the Washingtons”
“Extract the juice of 20 pounds well ripend Morrella cherrys. Add to this 10 quarts of old french brandy and sweeten it with white sugar to your taste. To 5 gallons of this mixture add one ounce of spice such as cinnamon, cloves and nutmegs of each an Equal quantity slightly bruis’d and a pint and half of cherry kirnels that have been gently broken in a mortar. After the liquor has fermented let it stand close-stopped for a month or six weeks then bottle it, remembering to put a lump of Loaf Sugar into each bottle.”
21st Century Cherry Bounce
From “The Bloody Dirk Tavern,” by Bryan Cunning
10 to 11 pounds fresh sour cherries, preferably Morello, or 3 jars (1 pound, 9 ounce) preserved Morello cherries
4 cups brandy
3 cups sugar, plus more as needed
2 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces
2 to 3 cloves
1 (1/4-inch) piece fresh whole nutmeg
Pit the cherries, cut them in half, and put them in a large bowl. Using a potato masher, carefully mash the fruit to extract as much juice as possible. Strain the juice through a large fine-mesh strainer, pressing the fruit with a sturdy spoon. (You should have about 8 cups.) Reserve the mashed cherries in the freezer or refrigerator for later use. If using jarred cherries, drain the fruit and set the juice aside before halving and mashing the cherries. Add any pressed juice to the reserved jarred juice.
In a lidded 1-gallon glass jar, combine the juice with the brandy and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cover with the lid, and set aside in the refrigerator for 24 hours, occasionally stirring or carefully shaking the jar.
Bring 2 cups of the juice to a simmer over medium heat. Taste the sweetened juice and add more sugar, if desired. Stir in the cinnamon sticks, cloves, and nutmeg. Then cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, and set aside to cool to room temperature. Strain, and discard the spices.
Stir the spiced juice back into the 1-gallon glass jar with the reserved sweetened juice. Cover loosely with the lid, and set aside for at least 2 weeks before serving, occasionally shaking the jar with care.
Serve at room temperature in small cordial or wine glasses. Store the remaining cherry bounce in the refrigerator.
The Washington County Historical Society will hold its Annual Twelfth Night Celebration Jan. 13 at the Sign of the Hangman’s Noose Tavern – the Kennedy Log House – in Washington Park. The event, beginning at 3 p.m. and running until 8 p.m., will pull from the traditions of the 18th-century Pennsylvania frontier to provide guests with the opportunity to experience a true Twelfth Night celebration. Period holiday drinks will be served, period food stuffs – including a traditional Twelfth Night cake – can be sampled, and tavern keeps will entertain with stories of the frontier, all as sit by a roaring fire and escape the winter chill. Visit www.wchspa.org for more information.