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Organic, local, free-from

6 min read
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Beth Smith and her husband, Oren, use organic means on their Avella farm, but they are not certified organic.

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The cows at Oak Hill Farm are raised on the pastures on the farm homestead in Avella.

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Beth Smith stands in a pasture amongst Black Angus cows on her and her husband’s farm in Avella.

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Oak Hill Farm produces Angus and Balancer seedstock with over 100 breeding-age females. The farm sells the cows and also produces beef for sale in its Community Supported Agriculture service.

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Oak Hill Farm produces Angus and Balancer seedstock with over 100 breeding-age females. The farm sells the cows and also produces beef for sale in their Community Supported Agriculture service.

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Oak Hill Farm also produces hydroponic lettuce and greens. The produce can be purchased through a Community Supported Agriculture service subscription.

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Katie Roupe/Observer-Reporter Beth Smith of Avella feeds the cows some grain on her farm. The cows also graze on the grass in the pastures.

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Katie Roupe/Observer-Reporter Oak Hill Farm is run by Beth and Oren Smith in Avella. At the farm, the couple grow hydroponic lettuces and greens and have cows for butchering and selling.


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By Kristin Emery

For the Observer-Reporter

newsroom@observer-reporter.com

Eating seasonally is a way of life for Elizabeth Erikson.

“The taste of fresh produce, whether you grow it in your own garden or buy it at the market from someone who picked it that morning, is so superior,” said the Eighty Four resident. She tries to buy locally grown produce whenever possible, and she and her family grow, can and freeze vegetables and raise sheep, goats and chickens that produce eggs.

“I can’t say I never get anything out of season or I never buy anything that doesn’t come from Pennsylvania,” she added. “Because I like coffee and I like chocolate and I don’t want to give those up.”

Erikson also believes organic products are better for her family’s health, but that doesn’t mean she only buys organic.

“I’m a big believer in organic processes but, for me, local trumps organic.”

What is organic?

Federal standards require organic products to be produced without pesticides, herbicides, synthetic fertilizers or bioengineering. Organically raised animals must be fed organic materials and may not be treated with hormones or antibiotics. While organics may reduce your exposure to chemicals, there’s no proof they’re higher in nutrition.

A Stanford University study in 2012 concluded there’s no strong evidence that organic foods are significantly more nutritious than conventional foods. Food safety groups routinely test conventional produce for the presence of synthetic pesticides and release lists of which fruits and vegetables they recommend you buy organic to avoid them. However, critics argue some of those pesticides are not harmful and that the groups don’t test organic produce, which can be treated with natural pesticides that can be toxic.

Many local farms use organic practices, but are not certified organic due to the time and expense it takes for that federal designation.

In Avella, Beth and Oren Smith run a fresh vegetable and frozen beef operation called Oak Hill Farm using organic practices, but they’re not certified organic.

“We raise and sell field-grown vegetables and hydroponic lettuce and greens,” said Beth Smith. “We view our role as stewards of the land and the animals and plants under our care.”

Smith applauded the growing popularity of organics saying, “Federal organic regulations have been reviewed more often and organic production continues to grow. Even the large growers are into it in a big way.”

Registered dietitian and nutritionist Katherine Stephens-Bogard with the Washington Health System works as a certified diabetes educator. Her passion is a belief that wholesome food is medicine. At home, she chooses locally grown produce.

“It is likely the most nutrient-dense as it was harvested at or very near peak ripeness,” she said. “I want to support local businesses. I believe small business is the fabric of life and buying local not only nourishes us physically but also economically.” For her, organic is a double bonus. “I will buy local, even if it’s not certified organic, if I’ve had a chance to talk with the farmer about his or her agricultural practices or animal husbandry.”

Finding organic or locally grown produce is fairly easy, but meat and dairy present more of a challenge.

Erikson said, “I prefer to buy 100 percent grass-fed beef from local farmers. There are lots of people doing it now.” She claimed the flavor is better and said she wants to support farmers who use more humane practices. Federal regulations prohibit the use of hormones in poultry and pork, but antibiotics are still widely used in commercial meat production.

Oak Hill Farm owner Beth Smith raises Angus cattle through organic practices and said, “Cattle raised in a healthy environment do not need antibiotics or added hormones. If one does get sick and is prescribed an antibiotic by our vet, we will give it but that animal will not be harvested for beef.”

Grocery stores are responding to increasing customer demand for meat that’s free from antibiotics. Jeff Duritza, owner of Shop ‘n Save in Canonsburg, said antibiotic-free Gerber’s Amish Farm Chicken sells very well. “Although the price is above our other chicken products, customers are willing to pay more for it and the ‘free from’ label,” he said. “We are currently looking at options for an expanded organic and ‘free from’ meat line in our Shop ‘n Save stores.”

Duritza said today’s consumer is more health-conscious and constantly looking for organic or ‘free from’ products at reasonable prices.

“Our consumers’ palates have changed,” he noted. “We’ve noticed that our customers are interested in buying fresher, ‘better for you’ products and we will continue to meet their needs through expansion of our offerings.”

He said sales of organic produce and packaged goods have risen over the past five years.

“We continue to expand these offerings, particularly our Wild Harvest line that is free from over 100 undesirable ingredients, to include even more ‘free from’ and organic products,” he added.

Wherever you shop, facing so many choices can be confusing.

“If I’m unable to buy items locally, then I will purchase organic as often as possible,” Stephens-Bogard said. “Sometimes organic food in the grocery store is wilted, so I will buy conventionally grown so long as I’m fairly certain that it’s not GMO (genetically modified organism). I don’t believe one diet fits all.”

Her rule: Eat healthy, non-processed food whether it’s conventional, organic, local, fresh or frozen. She also realizes fresh food costs more than processed food and local and organics cost more than conventional produce.

“For some of my clients on fixed or limited incomes, it’s a struggle to buy food so I don’t want to discourage them from eating more nutritiously if I also suggest it must be organic,” she said.

For Erikson, the added effort and cost are worth it. “We all have extremely busy lives and our budgets are important and it can be difficult to change the way we do things,” she admitted. “It’s worth it to me because everything tastes so much better.”

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