Nov 13, 2019 4 min read

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When talking mashed potatoes, we have a love/hate relationship.

When positive, words like fluffy, creamy and come to mind. When negative, words like grainy, gluey, watery and lumpy (unless you want them lumpy) come to mind.

At this time of year, we look forward to that staple on the holiday table. But, how do you like your potatoes? Growing up in our house, hand mashed skin on red potatoes were the go-to. But my wife’s family prefers the starchy, buttery, smooth, but fluffy traditional mashed potatoes. Neither ever went to the boxed mashers, however.

There are three types of potatoes in my book: starchy, waxy and in between. The starchy potato would be russets, bakers and Idaho to name the most popular. These are usually starchier but are lower in potato flavor. Waxy potatoes are the red potato, new potatoes and fingerlings. These are usually smaller, with thinner skin and a more potatoe-y (not a word) flavor. Waxy potatoes tend to hold their shape when cooked. The in-between most popular potato is the Yukon gold or yellow potato. It is both waxy and starchy. I will split the Yukon and russets in my recipe to get flavorful yet smooth mashed potatoes.

So you want to choose your potato for its purpose. If you want fluffy, buttery potatoes, you would want to use the starchy potato. It tends to blend better with your dairy additions, you are able to mix it more and introduce some air, and it is easiest to peel.

For your more rustic mashed potato, you will probably be more pleased with the waxy potato. It is less starchy, sweeter and holds it shape, so the potatoes will be lumpier. I would recommend leaving the skins on. We do this to add flavor and mainly because they are usually small and a pain to peel. Try peeling two pounds of fingerling potatoes and you will never peel them again.

When cooking your potatoes in water, salt the water like you would pasta. The potatoes absorb water and adding salt enhances the potatoe-y (that nonword again) flavor. For even cooking, you want to start with cold water. Putting potatoes in hot water will have the outer layer of the potato breaking down well before the center. Put potatoes in a pot of water that will be about one inch above the potatoes. Bring to a boil, but reduce to a rolling simmer. This will save the starch cells from breaking up. The potato will absorb water in the cooking process so if you are going to put cream or milk in, there is not much room in the potato for it. Dry the cooked potatoes on a sheet tray in the oven for 10 or so minutes so it will be creamier as it absorbs more dairy.

There are several ways to mash potatoes. You can use a mixer, a potato ricer or food mill, or a hand masher. Do not use a food processor unless you plan on using your mashed potatoes to wallpaper. The mixer is best for high starchy potatoes that will have fat or liquid added. My favorite, the potato ricer, is a great tool; it creates creamy, fluffy potatoes. It is slightly tedious and when adding other ingredients, it tends to ‘deflate’ the potatoes. A food mill is akin to an easier ricer. And of course, the old fashioned wire potato masher, which is used to keep kids busy. Some people swear by these to create the best mashed potatoes. If using a hand potato masher, I would recommend the one with grids or holes as it creates creamier potatoes.

Butter and cream/milk are a must for most family’s mashed potatoes. In order to incorporate them into the potatoes, add them warm. It combines easier and makes for creamier potatoes, without agitating the starch. When potatoes are mashed, the starch is released. The more you work the potato, the more starch is released and potatoes can get gummy.

Once your potatoes are mashed, have your other ingredients ready to go and fold them in with a spatula. We like roasted garlic. My mom added cheddar cheese and a little minced onion. Herbs, spices, cream cheese and bacon can be used to give your potatoes a signature taste. Sometimes, simple salt and pepper is enough.

Whether you are a couch potato or cooking is ‘a-peeling’ to you, enjoy your mashers and your family these holiday months.

Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.